I think the camera can run off the power supplied by a motor drive, so probably a lot of the original caddies got lost, and now if you don't have or want to carry a motor drive you need a replacement holder. The holder is often missing and the part is no longer available. The square takes a little bit of time getting use to.The Bronica SQ-Ai 6圆 camera needs a battery holder/caddy to hold four LR44 button batteries (unlike earlier SQ's that used a single 6v battery). I have also used the AE III meter for the ETRSi and I find the exposure extremely accurate for average and spot. The major problem you will have using the spot is remembering to reset the compensation EV when changing lenses or back to your normal ISO settings if you decide to use average. There are several ways to compensate: 1 change the film speed dial on the magazine, exposure compensation dail, exposure compensation switch on the AE which is underneath the meter and I don't recommend because you could forget to switch it back, and if I am correct use the exposure compensation dail on the magazine itself. The spot meter works well with subjects that are close or greater distances but you will have to compensate for lenses at and above 110mm in EV. The average works fine when the subject is close and requires no adjustments for the lenses. The prism has two types of metering : average and spot. Hope this gives some ideas, enjoy the Bronica, CJB You will need some form of meter with your WLF, I use an old Weston Master III ((£3 from e-bay) which does the job but a metered SLR will do for starters. Since any Bronica you are likely to buy will probably come with a WLF then you can try this method of composition out as a first option-if you decide you want a prism then get one later, an SQAi will give you the option of a metered prism. The Mamiya seemed like a big version of a modern SLR 35mm camera which was exactly what I didn't want. The reason I chose the meterless WLF was that I enjoy using that for composition, I am around 6'2" tall and the WLF gives me an opportunity to take photographs that are not always 'looking down' without giving me too much back ache, for low level shots I can set up the camera with a low tripod, compose - perhaps squat down to use the loupe for fine focus' then take the photograph. I also tried out a Mamiya Pro TL which cost a little more but had a metered prism with various metering options. The 'B' stands for basic, there is no option for metering on this model but I could add a non metering prism should I wish to do so. I recently bought a Bronica SQ-B s/h from a dealer. Your real decision might well be "is it worthwhile buying a prism ?" rather then "which of these two mechanisms should I prefer?" There doesn't seem to be much merit in buying as separate components unless you really don't want an 80mm lens. Incidentally most times you buy a Bronica, even on eBay, there's a wlf with the basic body/lens/back kit. I think it would be rare for me to actually set the exact exposure suggested by my prism's meter, but its good enough to remind me that I've changed backs for a two stop faster film and haven't reset the hand-held! There is a later/more expensive version that spot-meters and though I haven't used it I doubt whether it can challenge the precision of a 1 deg. I find the metering of my AE prism S to be pretty primitive its an overall average meter, and that isn't how I want to control exposure for slide film. I also want to use an exposure routine that translates from system to system, and taking multiple spot readings from around the frame with a hand-held spotmeter does that. My routine involves setting composition before I meter, and I don't want to then lose the composition whilst I move a prism around my composition to meter. I use the ttl metering of my prism only as a sense check on my hand-held. I could achieve some of them but not all by using two prisms but that costs and weighs more. It costs me little in money or weight to achieve these flexibilities. Sometimes I want to see the elements of the composition in more abstract terms and having the image laterally reversed helps this. Sometimes I want to use the extra magnification in the wlf's magnifier to tune composition or focus. The combination of an eye level prism with a wlf lets me choose the viewpoint thats right - or, if I'm pointing the camera sharply up, to make it easier on the neck. Sometimes I want to shoot with the camera low or high. I guess you could sum up the reasons why I use a wlf as follows. Whilst I have and use an eye-level prism as a kind of default setting on my Sq-Ai, I have and use a wlf as well.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |